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What an amazing project you put together. I am student of the old timers and have loved reading/listening to the stories of surfers tell about how it started. I remember not many decades ago when I would climb a snow covered hill, strap on a wooden board with bungee cords and ride soft luscious powder. We called it snurfing… and now it's what everyone knows as snowboarding. Not quite the same romantic beginnings of surf, but I understand the importance of capturing that time, that moment. Only a few of us will remember those early days.
Anyways… I'm super bummed to have missed your picture screening in Mill Valley.. believe it or not, I was at the Opera seeing Moby Dick (terrible) rather than at the film festival. I also missed you in Honolulu where I live most of the time. I think you are done screening the film right? Next step is DVD?
You put a big smile on my face as I watched your trailer and realized someone was capturing these stories. I had an idea many years ago that someone needed to capture the stories of all the beach boys in Waikiki… they were/are at the core of the Hawaii surf lore and many of them are quietly passing away. These are not the big name surfers we all hear about, but the true local surfers that never made it on magazines or were shot by photographers. These old guys have great stories and give a perspective on the birth of surfing in Hawaii unlike any other. Maybe a future project for you or maybe a film student?
aloha,
carnet
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