PHOTO OF THE DAY

HAPPY HOLIDAY!
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Photo of The Day

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Photo of the Day

Here is a shot for the girls. I came across this shot and really think the perspective is great as it captures style.

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Photo of the day/FOLLOW THE LIGHT

As I was scanning images from 1979 I turned to the next proofsheet of the collection. It was sheet #152 and it was a product shoot done by Larry "Flame" Moore. For those who do not know, Larry was the Photo editor for Surfing Magazine curating some of the best Photographers like Merkel, Chang, Barbour, Trout, Hornbaker and many others. The amazing thing about this sheet #152 is that there are 36 exposures and exposure #35 & #36 he set the camera up taking two self portraits.. I sent the images to Larry's sister to confirm if this was him and she confirmed that it is.  I find these two images amazing because Larry passed in Oct 2005 and has left behind so many memories but also the Follow The Light Foundation giving back to up and coming photographers. I guess if I were to title these images I would title them FOLLOW THE LIGHT.

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http://www.surfline.com/surfing-a-to-z/larry-flame-moore-biography-and-photos_805/
http://followthelightfoundation.org/

Photo of the day

Well, the election is over and we can all move on. Im currently doing a project with Thomas Campbell who is hosting an event for his New Book signing party at Mollusk/SF. Good vibes, music, art and get his book. Its amazing. Here is todays photo!

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

OCT 23,2012
1979

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

A continuation of 1979. The film is done. DVD's being pressed and images continuing to rekindle stories. It truly has been a good thing for all to share. Here is todays shot as the face of the surfer is saying push it. In 1979 Im starting to see the Evolution.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Yesterday's first posting of 1979 reunited Photographer Lance Trout with an image he captured of Sunset Beach. Well, here we go with the 2nd image of '79. Lets see what happens.

The Katin PRO Team Challenge

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

One word. Nice Drop in.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Great shot of George Greenough.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

A young MR on a lightning bolt. This was the guy that gave so many of us inspiration.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

I have only looked at about 1-2% of this collection and have been in aww of the 70's images. But the other night I randomly ventured into the 80's. Here is some 1980's love. More to come soon.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

This morning on my run so many thoughts swirl thru your head as I ponder about this collection of work. Everyday I post and image and see the memories of words added daily. I am so greatful that these images were found. It has allowed me to tell stories and share. Imagine if these boxes were never found or destroyed. History would be gone. So here is todays photo that to says history as to onlookers are in aw of Gerry Lopez and his board.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Here is a classic skate shot riding the concrete water.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

I woke up this morning as today is the day that "Lost & Found" will be available thru The Surf Network starting today. I also woke up with these great words from Randy Rarrick. "Hi Doug,Loved the film!  Really made me realize what an important time in history that whole era was!  It also made me realize how lucky I was to have been a part of it all!"

I think it proves that you have to give to receive.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

A PHOTO"S STORY
by Gerry Lopez

The drop at the Pipeline is even more intense than the tube ride that might come afterwards if everything goes right. The right attitude is the first necessity of a successful takeoff. Without a great degree of confidence even the most skillful may fall victim to the specter of the Pipeline's reputation long before they even begin to paddle for a wave. Wave selection is, of course, another huge variable that comes into play because there are waves on any given day that are simply not meant to be ridden. The surfers who are familiar with the break know when to get out of the way and just let those waves pass by.  Positioning and timing are critical in just about any endeavor in life and more greatly magnified when trying to line up and catch a good wave at the Pipe. This photo is interesting for a number of reasons. The drop looks in good shape, my edge is set, my foot placement good, my eyes looking at what's up ahead. The wave in front masks the entire lower portion of the wave so its difficult to tell exactly how big the wave is but from the position of the two guys caught inside and paddling for their lives, it is definitely a set wave. The one guy looks like he has made it over okay but is probably getting a look at the wave behind that might be bigger, in which case, the terrifying moments that comes from being here are not over.  The other guy, depending on how hard he is paddling and it looks like he had a good head of steam if his wake behind is any indication, is right at that critical point where he either will penetrate the lip or he won't. I would have to say his degree of terror is even greater than his friend's and there will be some heavy, weightless moments [nice oxymoron...] before his fate is decided.  If he makes it through, there will be the next wave to deal with. If he doesn't make it ..... well, looking at the straight line of the top of this wave means its a long wall of a very powerful Pipe wave as opposed to a more peak type wave. If the guy gets sucked back over the falls, it won't be pretty. But these are some of the risks anyone who paddles out at the Pipeline expects to encounter so while they may hope for the best, its always prudent to plan for the worst ... just in case.  

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

The year was probably 1974 as BK and Ian are seeing here standing at the contest. I love the old chalkboard scoring as it allowed us all to see the competitive side of the sport.

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Thanks to SURFER MAGAZINE

I met Brendon Thomas a few months ago when he contacted me about an interview on my story. I just wanted to say thanks to all the people involved in making this part of the Surfer Dec Issue. It has been a labor of love project over many years and I know I did the right thing to make this film as it has touched many who have seen it.

also thanks to Erin Kunkel photographer who came out to my house to shoot me.

erin kunkel PHOTOGRAPHY

food // travel // lifestyle images

represented by 1 Notion: 858.883.1000

http://erinkunkel.com

http://erinkunkel.blogspot.com/

415.867.3215

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1978 sheets 0011-0015