PHOTO OF THE DAY

Yesterday's first posting of 1979 reunited Photographer Lance Trout with an image he captured of Sunset Beach. Well, here we go with the 2nd image of '79. Lets see what happens.

The Katin PRO Team Challenge

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YESTERDAYS PHOTO

Yes this image was posted yesterday. But Photographer Lance Trout confirmed that he had take this shot in 1979. Here is what Lance had to say about that day he captured this image.

Photographer Lance Trout
This image was posted yesterday as part of the “Lost & Found Collection” and by discovery Lance Trout was the Photographer who captured the shot in 1979. I reached out to Lance yesterday and here are his words of that special day on the North Shore:

If I am correct . That day was a little too big for Pipeline , and I lived across the street from Sunset , so I parked myself there for several hours . I used the SURFING Magazine 1000mm lens on my Nikon body , and was stationed on the west side of the Sunset Beach bay . You have a very pulled perspective there , but sometimes the elements flow together . Loved that perspective , yet I knew it lacked punch at most of the time .
Still , it was neat to see the heavy swell interact on the reef , and the deep channel ….

http://lancetroutphotographs.com/LanceTroutPhotographs/WELCOME_2.html

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Well, as promised here is the new era. 1979. A year when some people thought that the car called the Pacer was cool. Really? But also a year as not only surfing but skateboarding was exploding as well. We rode pools, walls, anything that we could shred and surfing started doing the same as well. Were we angry or were we just looking to be different?

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A new era

I just got home after being away working for the past month and have decided its time to hit the scanner. As I opened the bin I grabbed the first envelope that caught my eye. The year 1979. I was 14 years old and was frothing every month for the next issue of either surfing or surfer mag. I spent 2 hours tonight scanning about 20 images seeing surfing making a change from the previous images. It was still about style yet you start to see the impatience as now this new crew want to throw the board around. Im looking forward to entering this era as we start to see the evolution of the 80's.

Lost & Found II?

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

One word. Nice Drop in.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

A young MR on a lightning bolt. This was the guy that gave so many of us inspiration.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

I came across a great sequence of Gerry today. Here is an amazing shot.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

This morning on my run so many thoughts swirl thru your head as I ponder about this collection of work. Everyday I post and image and see the memories of words added daily. I am so greatful that these images were found. It has allowed me to tell stories and share. Imagine if these boxes were never found or destroyed. History would be gone. So here is todays photo that to says history as to onlookers are in aw of Gerry Lopez and his board.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

When you see this photo it captures a time that has come full circle. Its amazing how HISTORY can repeat itself or actually not.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Tomorrow night we will be showing the prints from the show at Aaron Chang's Gallery in LA at the Mirror Gallery in Downtown LA. But in the meantime here is Here is a shot of Rory hitting it hard with speed, force & power.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Here is a classic skate shot riding the concrete water.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

He was born on August 7, 1955 and has a laugh that outs a smile on your face. He is also known as the "rubberman". Yes, Larry Bertlemann has inspired so many of us with his surfing and today is his Birthday so I thought it would be great to acknowledge him. I was honored to spend time with him while making "Lost & Found"

Happy Birthday Larry!!

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

As the US Open is taking place I thought I would randomly open an envelope that enters into the the 90's era. Here is what I came upon. A very young Kelly Slater. Who would have thought that this guys would become such an icon and leader in our sport. Truly amazing.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Last night was the Follow the Light  event in Huntington Beach where local photographer Shawn Parkin won the Grant this year proving the importance of what Larry "flame" Moore created. With that said here is a classic shot of a YOUNG pt killing it!!

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

A quiver of magic.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

During the filming of 'Big Wednesday,' both John Milius and Jan Michael Vincent did quite a bit of surfing on location in El Salvadore, at Coho Point and at Sunset Beach.  By the end of the filming, they were in probably the best surfing shape of their lives. In this picture, we are standing on the beach at Sunset and I'm guess I'm pointing out some of the intricacies of this complex spot.  This was before surf leashes so the most important thing would be as much information as possible about how to swim in after losing a surfboard in the line-up and not losing it completely in the rip currents in the channel afterwards. By the expressions on their faces, I must have been making an impression because they sure look like they're paying complete attention..... Gerry Lopez

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Even as the film is released and becoming more available for all to see the postings will continue as they give everyone important history to enjoy and re live. This could just be the beginning of something new to come.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

I woke up this morning as today is the day that "Lost & Found" will be available thru The Surf Network starting today. I also woke up with these great words from Randy Rarrick. "Hi Doug,Loved the film!  Really made me realize what an important time in history that whole era was!  It also made me realize how lucky I was to have been a part of it all!"

I think it proves that you have to give to receive.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

I know the definition of quiver means something else then what this image displays. But I would say here is a line up of some magic boards all ridden by legends.

amazing.

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PHOTO OF THE DAY

Sometimes I sit down and I begin to write but never quite know how to express myself. So tonight I grabbed the dog and escaped to nature. As the wind quietly blew I could see what I needed to say as it cleared the air.

SURFING. What is it? It gives us so much. It allows us to share and express ourselves with authority allowing us to be seeing in way we are not seen on shore. These are the things that make me realize how important it is to SHARE. As I posted a small thing about Rory Russell shaping boards and selling history I realized how important it is. Yes there were many others who passed this STOKE along and have moved on from this life. But its the ones who remain that we must listen to their stories and support them. Life is fast and sometimes is taken from us to early. So lets support history before the concrete dries on the walk of fame.

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